WOMEN IN ARMS
Wake up babe, Medieval autumn is here!
She’s been dead for 600 years, and yet remains one of the most famous empowerment inspirations for women all over the world. She got a micro bob before it was cool and got bad press in the UK. She’s an icon, she’s a legend she’s the moment, she’s Joan of Arc.
Every couple of years, the Maid of Orleans pops back in the conversation with a designer creating a look inspired by her, a celebrity dressing up as her for Halloween, or a related Simpsons episode. I bet the Catholic Church cherishes the day they made her a saint, as she is probably one of the most famous and actually looked-up saints in the Church’s pantheon.
Anyway, our dear Joan is back on the radar today. Jenna Ortega wants to play her, Baz Lurhmann is about to shoot a movie about her story, and once again the fashion world is looking for inspiration in military medieval aesthetics (and still no one is doing hennins).
So the great question is: why is she back now, and why is it more than a simple seasonal fancy?
Well, the short answer is:
When women’s rights are attacked, women strike (a pose) back.
It’s a gruesome world for women. But women do not let themselves hold back. Today is a time for them to feel this urge to stand tall, to give themselves the appearance of the Woman in Arms, the one who does not let go without a fight, the one ready to defend herself and her sisters. The dignity and fierceness of the Woman, holding a sword, showing to the world that she will guard her integrity with the might of a soldier.
So, when comes time to look for inspirations that fit the symbol & a certain aesthetic appeal, we just had to go back to the Middle Ages. Yes, if we think of depictions of women with a weapon in their hands in our culture, we have two options:
Women of the Bible & Saints: Judith, Salomé, Joan of Arc, Saint Catherine of Alexandria… The Medieval and Early Modern churches were filled with portraits of women holding swords, or even having their bodies run through (think of the Virgin Mary’s Our Lady of Sorrow). We are used to associating elements of violence with portrayals of women in gowns and crowns, holding their swords with serenity and grandeur. Even Judith or Salome seem absolutely in control. There is no erotica in these paintings, only strength, power (the sword itself and economic power), and even religious fervor. Divine grace, if you will. Pre-raphaelites helped crystalize this aesthetic through their love for depicting Medieval women as passionate muses, surrounded by beauty, flowers, and of course, swords.
And all the rest: An eroticism of women holding weapons through the male gaze. Lara Croft, porno chic dominatrix… We know there were other female fighters: Amazons for instance. But it is not what our patriarchal society chose to make images of.
So yes, thanks for Joan.
You want other examples of the Medieval Mania?
Here you go !
Anya Taylor-Joy, Florence Pugh in Dune, Chappel Roan… It doesn’t get more Gen Z than that.
Some of my favorite chain mail accessories on Etsy:
As Tina said (or so): What’s Brands Got to do with it?
Go big or go home: Swords are a cool start, but please let’s resuscitate some other medieval wonders! Shoes, hennins, crazy long foreheads…. The Middle Ages are an unfairly uncharted fashion territory.
Thanks for reading me! I’ll just leave you with this wonderful image below (the tiktok can be found here) and a cover of Voyage Voyage by a 90’s Gregorian music band. The video is insane.
P.S: I’d like to apologize for not knowing Saint Katherine Drexel, she’s actually pretty cool! She campaigned all her life to provide education for afro-american and native american children. Here she is:
